RV pre purchase inspection checklist pdf: 12 must-dos

It was June in Sarasota when I bought that fifth wheel. I should have used an RV pre purchase inspection checklist pdf, but I didn’t. The lot was so hot I could smell the asphalt through the truck window. I crawled under the gooseneck with a flashlight and figured the underbelly looked fine. Two months later, the floor in front of the refrigerator felt like a sponge. I skipped the professional inspection because the seller seemed nice and the price was right, and I should have called pre-purchase RV inspectors in Port St. Lucie instead. That mistake cost me about eleven thousand dollars in rot repair before I traded the thing in at a loss.

Now I book an inspector for evry rig I or my friends buy, and I don’t hand over a dollar before the report is in my hands.

That’s why I tell buyers to start by finding pre-purchase RV inspectors in Port St. Lucie or wherever the rig sits, then use this list to wrap around their work.

1. Confirm the VIN, title and lien status before anything else

A certified inspection doesn’t matter much if the seller doesn’t own the RV free and clear.

My friend from the hospital almost skipped this step on a private-sale toy hauler. The seller said he’d “lost” the title and offered a bill of sale. No title, no deal. Lien procedures vary by state, so I call the DMV and ask exactly what they need. The exact question to ask the seller: “Are there any liens or loans on this unit, and can you show me a title in your name right now?”

2. Pull the service and roof-maintenance records before you pay for an inspection

A rig with no records is a rig that has been ignored.

The roof is where deferred maintenance turns into a five-figure repair. I look for a repeat sealant job on a schedule, not just “I resealed it last spring.” The exact question to ask the seller: “Do you have receipts or a log for every roof inspection and sealant job in the last five years?” If not, I ask for a roof-only inspection before we even test appliances.

3. Put the inspection contingency in writing, with a specific pass/fail

Verbally agreeing to “let you have it checked out” means nothing on a Tuesday.

That last clause is the one that saved me on a dealer lot when my inspector found a propane leak at the manifold. The dealer groused, but the contract said life-safety, so I got my $1,000 deposit back. The exact question to ask the seller or dealer: “Will you sign a written contingency with a specific definition of a failed inspection?”

4. You choose the inspector, not the seller

This one seems obvious, but a dealer once handed me a “recommended inspector” who turned out to be there own service manager’s son-in-law.

The NRVIA code says the inspector can’t take money from both sides without your okay, and they can’t profit from repairs on a rig they inspected for at least a year. Then ask for proof of liability insurance.

5. Get the seller to agree to full hookups and access for the whole test

A generator that hasn’t been run in six months needs the full load: air conditioner, microwave, refrigerator on electric, and a few lights.

I now tell the seller or dealer: the inspector will need the RV on 30- or 50-amp power, water hooked up, propane tanks full and valves open, and the slides and levelers ready to cycle. The exact question to ask: “Will you have the unit on shore power with water and propane connected, and all exterior compartments unlocked?”

6. Make sure the propane leak test is included and recorded

The NRVIA standard calls for an LP leak-down test: the system is held at 8 inches of water column for five minutes and the result logged.

My inspector on the Class C found the regulator outlet pressure at 10.8 inches, within the normal 9.5 to 12.5 range some sources cite. The exact question to ask the inspector: “Will you do a timed LP leak-down test and give me the numbers, not just pass/fail?”

7. Agree on the roof method: walk it if possible, image it if not

A visual roof inspection from a ladder misses soft spots under the membrane.

My inspector used a pinless moisture meter first and flagged a high reading near the bathroom vent, then confirmed with a pin meter. The exact question to ask: “How will you check the roof deck and membrane, and if you can’t walk on it, will you use a thermal camera or moisture meter?”

This video from Rigor RV Repair walks through some used RV buying tips I think you’ll find helpful.

8. Verify moisture readings come with a baseline, not just a red light

Pinless moisture meters are great for big areas, but they give a relative reading, not an absolute percentage.

Without a baseline, a high number can be a false alarm from metal framing behind the paneling, wich is common in aluminum-framed RVs. The exact question to ask: “When you get a high moisture reading, how do you confirm it, and will you record the baseline dry reading for me?”

9. Get the DOT date codes from every tire, including the spare

This is the one my friend from work almost skipped because she thought new-looking tread meant new tires.

The DOT number ends with four digits: week and year, like “1018” for the tenth week of 2018. Tire makers say to inspect tires annually after five years and replace them by ten years even if the tread looks good. The exact question to ask: “Will you record the DOT date code from every tire, including spares, and note any that are over five years old?”

10. Record generator and engine hours on motorized rigs

A 2016 Class C with 20,000 miles and 60 hours on the generator is a different machine than one with 1,200 hours.

My inspector on the Class C logged the engine hours from the dashboard and the generator hours from the hour meter, then ran the generator under a 50-amp load for twenty minutes while watching the voltage and frequency. The exact question to ask: “Will you start the generator and run it under a full load for at least fifteen minutes, and record the engine and generator hours in the report?”

11. Get the written report in your hands before any non-refundable payment

A refundable deposit held by a neutral party is diffrent from a wire transfer to someone you met on Facebook Marketplace.

I structure the deal so the inspector sends me the report first, usually within 24 to 48 hours, and I review it before I put down anything that can’t be clawed back. The exact question to ask the seller or dealer: “Will you accept a refundable deposit in escrow until I have the inspection report and a clean title?”

12. Decide your plan for each finding before you go to negotiate

A long list of minor items is not a deal-breaker; in fact, it gives you a punch list for the first month of ownership.

For my current rig, the report listed a failed LP detector (five-year lifespan) and a missing carbon monoxide alarm. I told the dealer I’d take the RV at the agreed price if they replaced both and gave me a receipt before delivery. They did. Write that list down before you call the seller.

One more thing: line up the inspector before you make the offer

The mistake I see buyers make most often is waiting until the deal is hot to start looking for an inspector.

If your in Florida, I’d start with a look at RV inspectors across Florida and call two of them with the rig’s year, model and location.

And if you’re buying new, dont assume the dealer’s PDI found everything. I wrote a separate post about whether you need an inspector for a brand-new RV, and the short answer is yes. For the longer story of my fifth wheel mistake, see why I will never skip an inspection again.

Keep reading

• Pre purchase RV inspection: what it covers and how to book
• RV Inspection Checklist: 15 Systems a Good Inspector Goes Through